Saphiret jewellery, what is this sparkly stone?

Walk into any antique shop or browse a vintage jewellery fair, and every so often you may catch a glimpse of something unusual, a gemstone that seems to glow with hues of blue, gold, and smoky amber. Often mistaken for a natural mineral, this captivating material is known as saphiret.

Despite its gemstone-like appearance, saphiret is not a naturally occurring stone. It originated in the 1800s in what is now the Czech Republic, then part of Bohemia, an area renowned for its glassmaking expertise. Bohemian artisans developed saphiret as a type of specialty glass, created by adding tiny amounts of gold to molten glass. This process resulted in a material with a distinctive color-shifting effect, known today as “dichroism.”

The precise formula and technique used to produce saphiret have been lost to time, which only adds to its mystique. While modern glassmakers have attempted to replicate it, often under the name “sapphiret” or “Czech glass”, true antique saphiret remains unique to the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Saphiret quickly found favour during the Victorian era, commonly set into brooches, rings, and pendants. As fashion evolved into the Edwardian period, saphiret continued to be used, though often in more delicate settings. By the early 20th century, however, production appears to have ceased, and the material gradually faded from mainstream use.

Today, saphiret jewellery is highly sought after by collectors. With original production methods lost, genuine antique pieces are finite. The soft transition between colours gives saphiret a depth unlike most gemstones or glass.

Collectors often prize pieces where the stone is in good condition and retains its original setting. Because saphiret is glass, it can show wear such as scratches or dulling, so well-preserved examples are particularly valuable.

Have you got any lurking in a jewellery box?